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The Pier is IN!

#1 User is offline   VydorScope 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 04:58 PM

We decided that lugging out our 10 inch Schmidt-Newtonian telescope and LXD55 mount, and re-aligning, re-leveling, and and and and… every time we wanted to use it was stupid. We decided to research building a more permanent setup. I began this project by harassing everyone that I knew that might have the slightest clue about these things for ideas. We came up with two very good plans, and decided to ditch them and use a third.

Plan A was to use a wood post. This was problematic because wood would warp with time. So it was suggested I use four posts, glued together and alternated their grain. Since wood warps along the grain this would set up a push me pull you setup and keep the post mostly straight. The other problem with this idea is that the wood would decay with time faster then the other plans we looked at.

Plan B was a concrete pillar. I was a bit concerned about this as I have never worked with concrete and had no idea what I would be in for. I was assured by many people that this was the better way to do it, and it would be fairly easy. My Sunday School teacher even offered to help with it. So we decided this would be the plan. I was saving the money up to do it this way, figured it would cost around $100 all said and done. I though we might be able to raise that by December. We ended up scrapping this plan completely too, and going with Plan M.

Why Plan M? Well because M is for miracle! While working out what would be needed for Plan B, I came across a man named Joe. I met Joe on the local astro-club’s Yahoo Group. Joe single handedly turned this from an idea that I might do in December to something I could do the very next day, for a fifth the price! See Joe had a spare steel pier that he made for a similar telescope to mine that he just gave to me. Here is the pier:

Attached File  Steel_pier.jpg (12.51K)
Number of downloads: 270 Attached File  peir1.jpg (118.27K)
Number of downloads: 230

As you can see in the pictures it is a complete unit. All I needed to supply was some nuts and washers to anchor it with and it was ready to go. It even had the holes predrilled that I needed for my mount.

Step 1: Decide a location for the pier. The lower right hand corner of our yard gives us the best range of sky to view. One day we plan to build a building around it, and we used the fence to mark about where the walls will one day be.

Attached File  location.jpg (51.13K)
Number of downloads: 197

Step 2: Dig a hole. For most people this is probably a fairly simple step, but in my case it was the most dreaded step and I was worried about being able to do it. When they built our house, they had to fill in the land to get it out of the flood plane. The fill they used was all the debris left over from when they tore down Opry Land amusement park. My yard is filled with concrete, rebar, PVC pipes, old wires, and God only knows what else. In addition to all that, the dirt is very hard packed clay. I dug as deep as I could go, the hole ended up being just big enough to pour in two 80 pound bags of concrete.

Attached File  hole1.jpg (56.93K)
Number of downloads: 200


Step 3: Add spikes. I added 2 ten inch spikes in to the side walls to give additional support for the concrete block. I almost could not get them in the ground as I kept hitting rocks, and junk.

Attached File  hole2.jpg (102.2K)
Number of downloads: 195


Step 4: Pour in the concrete. I used 2 eighty pound bags of “Quickcrete” and basically just followed the directions on the bags. I tapped down the concrete as I poured it in to prevent air bubbles.

Step 5: Place the post. The post and its bolts are placed directly in to the concrete. The wing nuts are to give the bolts a less round shape. This will help them hold better as the concrete dries. Since the top plate of the post is used for leveling, I only had to get the post close to level. With some mounts you have to be very careful to align the post on the North Celestial Pole, but with my LXD55 there is only one center bolt to hold it, and the mount can rotate a full 360 degrees, making the position of the post a nonfactor.

Attached File  peir3.jpg (97.1K)
Number of downloads: 209 Attached File  peir2.jpg (62.57K)
Number of downloads: 244

That is all there is to Plan M. The post is out there now, setting. I will not put the LXD55 mount on it for a while yet.
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#2 User is offline   GTBaker 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 05:02 PM

Looking good. :D Do you guys have to dig below 4 feet because of frost?
Space isn't far. It's only an hour's drive away...straight upwards.
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#3 User is offline   tkerr 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 05:27 PM

GTBaker, on Oct 29 2005, 07:02 PM, said:

Looking good. :D  Do you guys have to dig below 4 feet because of frost?
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I don't think he has to worry as much about that in Tennessee. However in the higher altitudes they may have a frost/freeze line depth to be concerned about. Then you would want the footer to extend down deeper than that..I don't thin it is 4 feet like up north. I know here in Coastal North Carolina We are far from having to worry about that. Although you do bring up a good point. I am originally from Minnesota and if you do not go below 4 feet(Frost or Freeze line) the freeze will force the footing to rise up out of the ground. Have you ever seen that happen? Not a pretty site.

This post has been edited by tkerr: 29 October 2005 - 05:30 PM

Have A Nice

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#4 User is offline   budguinn 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 05:30 PM

Dude, talk about fortunate......I hope you put him on your Christmas Card....or maybe Calendar list.
That looks great and will really make your hobby alot more fun......congrats.

bud
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#5 User is offline   Bill Weir 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 05:38 PM

Vydor, if anyone, you deserve this. I'm so happy for you.

Bill
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#6 User is offline   Dave L 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 06:00 PM

:w00t2:
Alright, V. That is fantastic. No muss -no fuss- good stuff. No more stressing over this and just get out there when the skies permit and enjoy your setup. :)
And way to go Joe ;) . He sure did a great thing here, too.
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#7 User is offline   Harpspitfire 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 07:09 PM

did you use concretesilcaparabilceurathaiam setting mix the concrete?- hope so, if not the whole thing crumbles apart in 2 weeks- LOL-- really im glad you got the pier and installed it- looks good!- how far DID you dig that hole?- LOL
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#8 User is offline   Celestron8 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 08:48 PM

Christmas early before thanksgiving even ! Congratulations and hope it serves you well !
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#9 User is offline   VydorScope 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:08 PM

Thanks all!!

Question... how low do I need to wait for the concrete to set? Its 160pounds, and the bag said 24 hours, but I dunno if I can trust that? :)
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#10 User is offline   Harpspitfire 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:12 PM

set?- sets in a couple hours- gets hard in 24 hours, stable in 7 days for weight and drilling- cures for real hardness in 28 days
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#11 User is offline   VydorScope 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:14 PM

Harpspitfire, on Oct 29 2005, 10:12 PM, said:

set?- sets in a couple hours- gets hard in 24 hours, stable in 7 days for weight and drilling- cures for real hardness in 28 days
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SOoOooOOoo that means I can use it tommoro or next week or next month? :blink:
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#12 User is offline   Brian 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 09:58 PM

Vydor That is really cool.You should get that guy on this site if he is still in the hobby.
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#13 User is offline   Celestron8 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 10:03 PM

I come from a family of concrete workers and I hate that work and glad i didn't career in it but I do know that until the concrete cures thoroughly it's considered still green which will easily flake and crack if your not very careful . If I were you I'd wait at least a few days before I used it since it's not really that large in circumference . A few days it will cure pretty hard without too much worries and about a month when all the dark spots turn light means it's cured out good .
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#14 User is offline   Brian 

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Posted 29 October 2005 - 10:13 PM

You could also put a heat lamp over it if you had access to one.
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#15 User is offline   GTBaker 

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Posted 30 October 2005 - 08:06 AM

Keeping the concrete wet as well makes it cure faster and harder.
Space isn't far. It's only an hour's drive away...straight upwards.
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#16 User is offline   PlanetMan 

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Posted 30 October 2005 - 09:22 AM

Wow Vydor, that's an amazing story. It looks like a great pier too, and even painted! When you mount up your scope, I would recommend running those leveling bolts down as low as possible to keep down vibrations.
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#17 User is offline   VydorScope 

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Posted 30 October 2005 - 12:56 PM

GTBaker, on Oct 30 2005, 09:06 AM, said:

Keeping the concrete wet as well makes it cure faster and harder.
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Well its been 24 hours already so prbly late for that.

Just looked at it feels very solid heheh.
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#18 User is offline   Nighthound 

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Posted 30 October 2005 - 01:11 PM

Well done Vydor. I wouldn't worry about how solid the footer will be, it's going to plenty solid. After all you're not putting a house on it. What does your scope weight max out at?

I'm jealous, I'm plenty tired of set ups and "the routine" every time I go out too.

NH
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#19 User is offline   VydorScope 

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Posted 30 October 2005 - 01:36 PM

Nighthound, on Oct 30 2005, 02:11 PM, said:

Well done Vydor. I wouldn't worry about how solid the footer will be, it's going to plenty solid. After all you're not putting a house on it. What does your scope weight max out at?

I'm jealous, I'm plenty tired of set ups and "the routine" every time I go out too.

NH
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When I bought it it was listed as 110 pounds completely assembled. The OTA is aroun 25-30 pounds, there 35-40 pounds of counter wieghts, etc.
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